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Up high in the tropical rain forests of Nicaragua, where no man-made sounds can be heard for miles, I found myself in a place only a few would ever get to be. Traveling here is not easy as we left paved roads from Matagalpa and switched into four wheel drive through mud and rocks, joining people who made their journey upward. It is a place where toucans are no longer mythical creatures on fruit loop cereal boxes but part of the living community. Where beans are eaten for breakfast, lunch, and dinner with papayas sold at markets the size of...

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